In Spain, gastronomic discussions usually revolve around croquettes, tortillas and paella, but there is another big question that divides tables, bars and vermouths even if it makes less noise: anchovy or anchovy? In the Basque Country they have been demonstrating for decades that the real difference is practically only in the name, but not in how they are cooked.
Technically, anchovy and anchovy are the same species but they are not synonyms. When we talk about anchovy we usually refer to fresh fish or its preparation marinated with vinegar and seasoned with garlic, parsley and oil. For its part, with anchovy the image of salted anchovy comes to mind.
However, the fact that there is a recipe for Bilbao anchovies (when technically they are anchovies) makes it clear that, regardless of what you call them, they are delicious and very easy to prepare.
Anchovies (bilbao-style anchovies) are one of those dishes that seem minimalist on paper and the greatest when they arrive at the table. With only garlic, oil, vinegar and a chilli pepper we have a dish that makes you end up dipping bread without any kind of dignity.
Javier Lastras
Of course, the key to achieving this result begins even before lighting the fire. In the north they are clear: the anchovy has to be very fresh and better if it is large. One of those that almost still shines in the fishmonger. In addition, there are other details that completely change the final result and consist of soaking them in coarse salt for a few minutes before cooking them.
That brief layer of salt causes the fish to lose some of the water, making it firmer and not falling apart in the pot. Five minutes is enough to notice the difference. Next comes probably the most important part of the recipe: the flavored oil. The garlic is sliced (not too fine) and slowly browned along with a dried chilli.
The goal is not to burn them or turn the dish into a spiciness competition, but to perfume the oil. Let the garlic turn golden, slightly sweet and leave that deep flavor that then permeates the fish. So you have to remove both the garlic and the chilli before cooking the anchovy. It seems like a minor detail, but it avoids bitter flavors and allows you to control the final point much better.
PXhere
The anchovies are cooked for just a few minutes and, when the oil begins to bubble around the fish, a splash of white wine vinegar comes into play. Not too much, just enough to provide that acidity that cuts through the fat of the oil. Cover the pot and the steam does the rest.
The result has nothing to do with the fried anchovy at a beach bar or with the classic anchovy in vinegar as an appetizer. Here the fish is juicy, soft and full of nuances. More delicate than it seems.
The touch of fresh chopped parsley at the end gives it that touch that makes the recipe literally taste like northern cuisine. Pintxo bar cuisine, shared casserole and bread dangerously close to sauce.
Cover photo | Yoav Hornung
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