Mari Carmen Vaquero, pharmacist: "An altered microbiota can influence the general state of the body and also be reflected in the skin: duller, more reactive or prone to inflammation."

Nutricosmetics may seem super new to us, but the truth is that the term is already around 40 years old: it was in the 1980s when the Swedish biochemist Ake Dahlgren coined the term that combines nutrition and cosmetics to refer to ingestible supplements aimed at improving the health and appearance of skin, hair and nails.

Nowadays, nutricosmetics has made a place for itself in our beauty routines: raise your hand if you have never taken a hair supplement, even if it is due to its extreme virality and the FOMO of being left out, or if you have not prepared your skin for the summer sun by taking supplements a few months before (to blame, although the truth is that since I prepared myself with this type of pills – and, obviously, the corresponding sunscreen – I have not burned myself again, so in favor).

A few weeks ago we were at the presentation of the Rederm booster, a nutricosmetics supplement from the Genové laboratory, whose focus is well agingmultiplying the effects of the topical treatments we use on the surface of the skin, and nourishing and supplementing the skin from within.

We have been able to chat with Mari Carmen Vaquero, pharmacist and brand manager from Genové, about nutricosmetics, how it works, what we should prioritize in our routines and much more.

The eternal question: topical cosmetics or nutricosmetics? If we had to choose between one of the two things, which would we have to prioritize? If you had a limited budget and had to choose between spending it on a high-end serum or a three-month nutricosmetics protocol, where would the real change in your skin be most noticeable and why?

I wouldn't consider it as a choice between one thing or another, because the skin needs care from the outside for the protective barrier and activation from within so that the results are much more effective.

Topical cosmetics are essential to protect, hydrate and treat the skin surface, while nutricosmetics accompanies biological processes that occur in deeper layers and that a cream cannot reach.

If the budget was limited, I would prioritize based on need. If we are talking about dehydrated, dull skin, with loss of firmness or in a stage of change, such as over 30 or in perimenopause, a three-month nutricosmetics protocol can make a more global difference, because it works on mechanisms such as collagen synthesis, internal hydration, oxidative stress and the quality of the dermal matrix. Now, the ideal is to combine both approaches: activate from within and enhance from outside.

For example, our nutricosmetic, the Rederm Booster, we always say that it reaches where creams do not because thanks to the combination of all the active ingredients it has, the fibroblasts that are responsible for the generation of collagen are activated, we reach the deepest layers of the skin and “attack” from within.

Is it possible that there are interactions that are somehow “dangerous” in nutricosmetics? For example, I am now taking Rederm, and very soon I will start with sun capsules that also contain vitamin C, beta-carotene and so on. And oral hair supplements are super trendy too. So, is there any danger of interaction between them? Is it better to leave some to consume others or can they all be taken at the same time without danger?

When we combine several food supplements, it is important to check that their ingredients do not overlap excessively, that the sum of vitamins and minerals remains within safe ranges, that there are no possible interactions with medications or special situations and, above all, that the combination makes sense from the point of view of benefit. The ideal is that each product provides a complementary action, and not duplicates the function of another.

In this sense, it is worth paying special attention to fat-soluble vitamins—A, D, E and K—since, unlike many water-soluble vitamins, they can accumulate in the body when consumed in quantities higher than recommended. Therefore, if two supplements contain these vitamins, it is advisable to calculate the total daily dose and avoid unnecessary duplications, especially in long-term treatments or in people with specific circumstances, such as pregnancy, lactation, liver disorders, anticoagulant treatments or chronic medication.

My recommendation is to always review the complete composition of the products and avoid incorporating several supplements simply because they are fashionable, without assessing whether they are really necessary. The Rederm® Booster, for example, already provides a combination of hydrolyzed collagen peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, zinc, copper, biotin and antioxidants. If, in addition, sun capsules or hair supplements are added, the most prudent thing to do is to check which ingredients are repeated and, in the case of pregnancy, breastfeeding, illness or drug treatment, consult first with a health professional. It is not about supplementing by accumulation, but rather doing it in a personalized way and with criteria.

Likewise, the combination of oral and topical active ingredients does not have to be negative; In fact, in many cases both routes can complement each other and enhance skin care. However, it is advisable to assess overall exposure when ingredients with a greater potential for accumulation, irritation or interaction are used, such as fat-soluble vitamins, retinoids or certain antioxidants. The key is to evaluate the total dose, individual tolerance and that the combination responds to a specific objective within the care routine.

Women, especially over 30, are bombarded with the importance of collagen. What type of collagen (hydrolyzed, marine, type I) works best at a topical and nutricosmetic level to improve the condition of the skin?

At a nutricosmetic level, the most interesting thing for the skin is not “conventional” collagen, but bioactive hydrolyzed collagen peptides, because they are fragmented into smaller units that are better absorbed and can act as signals for fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, elastin and other components of the dermal matrix.

In the skin, type I collagen is especially relevant because it is one of the main structural collagens of the dermis. At a topical level, collagen does not work the same: applied in a cream it does not “reconstruct” the dermis as such, but it can help improve hydration, the feeling of comfort and the appearance of the skin. Therefore, for firmness and dermal quality, the oral route makes a lot of sense as internal support.

One of the effects that we can see during perimenopause and menopause is that the skin dulls due to the drop in estrogen. Faced with this, there are creams that no longer give more of themselves and do not manage to restore light to the skin or it is very difficult to achieve it. What nutricosmetic ingredient acts as internal support to stop that extreme dryness that creams can no longer alleviate?

At this stage, the drop in estrogen is associated with drier, thinner, duller skin, with flaccidity, little elasticity and a lower capacity to retain water. There are especially interesting nutricosmetic ingredients, such as oral hyaluronic acid, for its ability to contribute to more hydrated, flexible and comfortable skin.

However, one of the most relevant ingredients is collagen peptides. Collagen is the main supporting protein of the skin and acts as a support structure that helps keep it firm, compact and resistant. With the passage of time and hormonal changes, its natural production decreases, so providing collagen peptides from within can help meet the skin's needs at this stage, promoting a firmer, more elastic and cared for appearance.

It is also important to accompany it with vitamin C, zinc, copper and antioxidants, which help collagen synthesis, improve luminosity and protect against stress. The key is not to look for a miracle ingredient, but rather a formula that supports the skin on several fronts.

In this way, the same nutricosmetic that works for you when you are 25, 30 or 40, will also work for when you are entering premenopause and menopause. We must keep in mind that, for example, the Rederm® Booster, by having hydrolyzed collagen peptides, will go directly to where we are interested, enhancing the synthesis of collagen and elastin to improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin.

We have a lot of scientific evidence today about the intestine-skin axis. Can an altered microbiota (with its consequent gas, bloating) be improved through nutricosmetics designed for the skin? Is there any probiotic that can also help us improve the condition of our skin?

We increasingly understand the relationship between the intestine, inflammation, microbiota and skin better. An altered microbiota can influence the general state of the body and, in some people, also be reflected in the skin: duller, more reactive or prone to inflammation.

The gut microbiota and skin are connected through the gut-skin axis. Therefore, a nutricosmetic designed for the skin can make sense if it also works on the balance of the intestinal microbiota. Some probiotics, prebiotics or postbiotics can help promote digestive comfort and, at the same time, contribute to skin well-being. However, the benefits are not generic: they depend on specific ingredients, specific strains and clinical evidence.

Many thanks to Mari Carmen for being available for our questions and for sharing with us the keys to getting the most out of nutricosmetics and so that we can make the best use of it.

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