Galicia is already, in itself, a luxury thermal map, but within that universe there is a corner that has conquered even one of its most recognizable countrymen: Luis Zahera, who has confessed on several occasions his weakness for the hot springs of Ourense. In fact, on some occasions he has been seen enjoying the Prexigueiro Hot Springs. However, the actor's favorites are others, as he confessed last summer while giving the proclamation at the Ourense festivities.
This is the Termas do Muíño da Veiga, an enclave on the banks of the Miño where stress is diluted between steam, vegetation and the constant murmur of the river. The water springs from the bowels of the earth at temperatures that exceed 65ºC, although it drops to around 40ºC, the perfect temperature for taking a thermal bath.
The complex, made up of several pools of different sizes, is something of an improvised shelter and something of an ancestral spa. It is not surprising that it has become one of those places that are not only recommended by travelers, but is also a kind of pilgrimage place for people who return again and again looking to disconnect with hot water as their only excuse.
Ourense Tourism
What to see in Ourense: from the historic center to the city of Burgas
Ourense is not understood without water. The city grew around thermal springs that were already used by the Romans and that are still operational today in the heart of the urban center. The ideal starting point for a visit is the historic center, where quiet squares and the architecture of Romanesque churches mix.
One of the essential places is As Burgas, the most symbolic hot springs in the city, where water springs at high temperatures directly from the underground and in the heart of the old town. A few minutes walk away, the Cathedral of San Martiño marks the monumental point of Ourense, with its mix of styles and its famous Portico of Paradise, a kind of discreet sister of the more famous Portico of Glory in Compostela.
Ourense Tourism
But if there is a protagonist in the city, it is the Miño River. Its banks function as a large green corridor where walking becomes a plan in itself. As you move towards the outside, the urban landscape dissolves until it gives way to a more natural, wetter and more thermal Ourense.
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Ourense
Eating in Ourense is almost a local sport in Galicia. The kitchen is usually direct, with quality products and without unnecessary artifice. Octopus a feira is almost a religion, but it is not the only must-try dish.
In the historic center there are many taverns where you can eat well without breaking the bank, with generous portions of grilled meats, homemade empanadas and spoon dishes perfect for the Galician climate.
Galician broth, lacón, fish and traditional desserts such as filloa or bica. Taberna O Enxebre is one of those places that, to try any of these dishes, are always a success. Nearby, A Nosa Taberna Ourense is committed to snack cuisine and a mix of traditional dishes and informal options, as well as Venezuelan options.
Victor Hermida Prada
For those looking for something even more classic, one of those places where the bar fills up at midday, Taberna Pulpería Atarazana is an almost obligatory stop. Here the octopus and the usual portions sum up well what it means to eat in Galicia.
And if you fancy something a little more modern while still being accessible, Porta da Aira mixes contemporary tapas with traditional dishes. It is one of those places that works just as well for an improvised meal as it does for extending the night with wine and conversation.
What to do around Ourense: hot springs, canyons and towns that seem frozen in time
Leaving Ourense city is entering another Galicia, more rural and more picturesque. A few kilometers away, the Ribeira Sacra displays one of the most impressive landscapes in the northwest of the peninsula: deep canyons, vineyards and viewpoints that force you to stop and look. The Sil Canyon is one of those places where the landscape seems exaggerated, as if someone had raised the contrast on purpose.
Fernando
To the north, the small town of Allariz offers another type of getaway. Its historic center, very well preserved, mixes stone, river and absolute tranquility. It is one of those places where the walk does not need a plan, just the desire to get lost between the streets.
And for those looking to continue exploring the thermal side of the getaway, the Miño environment itself is a route in itself. The Thermal Walk connects different outdoor hot water areas, creating a kind of continuous natural spa where each stop has its own character.
As a whole, the entire Ourense area functions as a map of progressive disconnection: from the city to the river, from the river to the hot springs, and from the hot springs to a landscape that seems to stay a little longer than expected.
Cover photo | Ourense Tourism and Pedro J Pacheco
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