Subjecting your hair to coloring always has its drawbacks and having an appropriate routine for dyed hair is essential. The chemicals contained in dyes are quite aggressive and among them is ammonia, which is a substance that opens the cuticle so that the pigment can penetrate and thus change the color of the hair.
But in recent years we have seen how many dye formulations have stopped using ammonia and use precisely this as a claim. This type of dye makes us think that they are gentler on our hair, although not all experts think the same.
Ammonia-free dyes usually contain a substance called MEA (monoethanolamine), which according to pharmacist Helena Rodero from her Instagram account: “Evidence shows that MEA can damage the hair fiber more than ammonia. As it evaporates much less, it keeps the hair at an alkaline pH for longer, and can cause up to 85% more damage in extreme conditions,” she explains.
Instead, Helena highlights that the ammonia reaches the fiber, does its job and evaporates. And that difference compared to the MEA means that the hair is not damaged as much. Hence the expert points out that this is another marketing deception.
The pharmacist explains that MEA is now widely used in dyes because “it has much less odor than ammonia and can be less irritating immediately. But that does not mean that it is more respectful of the hair fiber or the scalp.” One study notes that “the absorption of aqueous ammonia showed lower absorption than that of MEA”, and furthermore, in the same study it was observed that high concentrations of MEA (5%) resulted in keratin fibers with significant damage and visible surface damage.
Furthermore, these types of formulas can not only damage the hair, but can even cause hair loss. The professional explains that this is because “the combination of MEA + hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) increases oxidative stress and cytotoxicity in keratinocytes, which could contribute to hair loss associated with some coloring processes,” says Rodero.
After a study carried out to observe which dye ingredients produced more hair loss, it was reflected that both H2O2 and MEA synergistically induced oxidative stress and cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes, reflecting greater hair loss and dermatitis produced by hair dyes.
Now, according to Helena, ammonia dyes are the only ones that allow you to cover gray hair one hundred percent, and lighten the natural hair color. On the other hand, dyes with MEA (monoethanolamine) are more suitable for maintaining the same tone or darkening it.
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