Piornedo, more than built, seems carefully placed between the mountains to integrate into the landscape as if its stone houses had always been there. Built at almost 1,200 meters above sea level and under the peaks of Os Ancares, among them there are still 14 pallozas covered with straw. They are constructions with a circular or oval plan, thick walls and rye thatch roofs that transport you to a time before the Middle Ages.
This village of Cervantes, in the province of Lugo, is made up of just 18 houses in total and its population is around thirty residents. Getting there requires traveling through the winding roads of Os Ancares, but it is precisely this isolation that has allowed one of the most picturesque sets of traditional architecture in Galicia to be preserved.
Xunta of Galicia
What to see in Piornedo
The pallozas are the undisputed protagonists. They have a pre-Roman origin (presumably Celtic and Castro culture), although the specimens that are currently preserved date mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries and were used as housing until the second half of the 20th century. The rounded shape, its small gaps and the plant cover helped it withstand the cold, rain and snow of the mountain. Inside, people and animals lived together, separated only by wooden partitions. The cattle provided heat and the straw insulated the interior from the outside climate.
To understand what that life was really like, you can visit the Palloza Museo Casa do Sesto, which preserves the distribution between the area intended for the family and the space reserved for animals, as well as period furniture, tools and everyday objects. A small museum that allows you to enter one of these constructions and verify that the pallozas were completely functional homes.
Xunta of Galicia
The walk continues between granaries with green roofs, stone houses and the chapel of San Lorenzo. At the entrance to the village there is also a fountain built with contributions from the neighbors in 1787. The inscription engraved on it could not be more direct: “Long live Piornedo.” More than two centuries later, it's still there…
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Piornedo
The offer is as small as the village itself. The best-known option is the Cantina Mustallar, a rural food and accommodation house specializing in traditional cuisine. Their tables feature hearty dishes that are very appropriate for the mountain climate, such as Galician broth, beef or homemade desserts.
You can also eat at the restaurant of the Hotel Piornedo, located less than a kilometer from the traditional centre. Its menu changes according to the season and is based on local products, with a special presence of broths and meats. It is true that it is not the cheapest alternative, but it is a practical option to complete the visit without having to travel several kilometers looking for a table.
Amador Loureiro
What to do around Piornedo
Piornedo is one of the starting points to ascend Mustallar, which reaches 1,935 meters and is the highest peak in the Ancares of Lugo. This is a long and demanding mountain route, designed for people accustomed to hiking and conditioned by the weather. The route passes through the Braña de Piornedo, an ancient grazing area located within a large glacial cirque.
Those who prefer a less active getaway can drive through the mountains and stop in villages such as Donís and Vilarello, where there are also examples of traditional architecture. Another possibility is to visit Navia de Suarna, crossed by the Navia River and known for its medieval bridge and castle. The route is part of a scenic route that crosses ports, valleys and some of the most isolated corners of eastern Galicia.
Manuel Alende
Although it may seem like it, we cannot call Piornedo a “storybook town” out of respect. Especially since his pallozas were not born from fantasy, but from a rather hard life in the mountains. Its beauty lies precisely there, in having preserved the ingenuity with which entire generations learned to live in one of the coldest and most isolated places in Galicia.
Cover photo | Antonio L.
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