From the road, Purujosa seems to keep balancing on the mountain. Its stone houses are crowded at the top of a rocky spur, between the Isuela River and the Virgen Ravine, as if the flat ground were an unnecessary luxury. This Zaragoza municipality, with just 29 inhabitants, is part of the Aranda Region, in the lesser-known side of the Moncayo Natural Park. In fact, they call it “the door of Moncayo” and it offers visitors steep streets, houses protruding from the rock and a landscape of ravines, caves and limestone walls on the outskirts of the urban area.
What to see in Purujosa
Walking through Purujosa does not take too long if we talk in terms of meters, although its slopes already make the walk long… Among the houses, the church of El Salvador stands out, a 13th century temple that occupies the upper part of the town. The network of stone streets, the traditional facades and the views of the valley complete a visit in which the monument is the location itself.
Aragon Tourism
Another of its notable corners is the hermitage of the Virgen de Constantín, located on the outskirts and surrounded by the landscape of Moncayo. It is also worth approaching the area of the Isuela River and contemplating the town from below: it is from a certain distance that it is best understood how they have managed to place all those houses on a surface that seems more suitable for goats than for people.
The Purujosa environment also preserves caves and ravines with remains that speak of a very ancient human occupation. Stone tools associated with Neanderthals have been found in the Rincones cave, although it is an archaeological site and not a tourist cave that accepts visits.
Aranda Region Tourism
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Purujosa
With only 29 inhabitants, Purujosa does not exactly have a street full of terraces. The offer is very limited. In nearby Calcena is the Albergue de Calcena, which offers menus and cuisine to get by, a simple option to regain strength after so much difficulty. Another alternative is the Trasobares Municipal Camping. Although the best option is to take food from home and take advantage of the surrounding recreational areas, always respecting any restrictions.
What to do around Purujosa
Purujosa belongs to the Moncayo Natural Park and functions as a starting point for several routes between ravines. One of the best known runs through Cuartún and Valcongosto and allows you to get close to cavities such as the Cuartún cave. The terrain is mountainous and some trails are of moderate difficulty, so it is a good idea to check the route, the gradient and the weather conditions before starting.
Calcena Tourism
The GR 90 also passes through the area, the long-distance path that crosses the lands of Moncayo. The good thing is that it is not necessary to do an entire stage to enjoy the landscape but you can choose shorter sections between limestone walls, holm oak forests and gorges. For more demanding routes or caving and climbing activities, it is advisable to turn to specialized companies in the area.
The getaway can be completed in Calcena, another small town surrounded by limestone formations and closely linked to climbing, or in Trasobares, where the church and the baroque façade of the old Cistercian monastery are preserved. They are quiet stops and without queues or fomo. In this part of Zaragoza, the plan consists of precisely the opposite. It is comforting to see that there are still towns hidden among the mountains.
Cover photo | Diego Delso
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