Just an hour and a half from Madrid there is a medieval town with barely more than 400 inhabitants and where the echo of the bells can still be heard, the squares still have arcades and the summer smells of pine, thyme and fresh water. It's called Buendía and it is one of the most unexpected and beautiful getaways in Castilla. More specifically, in Alcarria Cuenca.
Many arrive attracted by the famous Route of the Faces, an almost mystical path where enormous faces emerge from the rocks next to the reservoir. But the best thing about Buendía is that it doesn't stop at just one viral photo. Here there are medieval walls, narrow streets, a monumental church, routes along the Guadiela River and the feeling of having found a place that is still authentic.
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What to see in Buendía: medieval walls, a gigantic church and sculptures among pine trees
The first thing that surprises you about Buendía is its medieval layout. The streets form circles around the historic center, following the old route of the wall that protected the town in the 15th century. There are still remains of those defenses and some original doors, enough to be able to imagine what this corner of La Alcarria must have been like centuries ago.
The heart of the town is the Plaza Mayor, arcaded and silent, with the town hall and the imposing Church of the Assumption dominating the scene. The church, built between the 15th and 16th centuries, is disproportionately large for such a small town, something that gives it a special air. Its mixture of Gothic, Baroque and Herrerian style reflects the historical weight that the town once had.
Buendia Town Hall
Nearby, it is also worth entering the old Casa de la Tercia, where the Car Museum is today located. It may sound a bit freaky because of the specific and unusual nature of the theme, but therein lies its charm. It is a collection of traditional carts, old tools and everyday objects that tell what rural life was like before rural tourism, Instagram and weekend getaways arrived.
And then there is the great jewel of the place: the Route of the Faces. A few kilometers from the town center, next to the Buendía reservoir, this simple path crosses a pine forest where enormous sculptures appear carved directly into the sandstone rock. Buddhas, giant faces, Templar crosses, skulls and figures inspired by oriental symbols create a landscape between spiritual and surreal. The best thing is that you don't need to be an expert hiker because the walk lasts just over an hour and is suitable for doing with children.
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Where to eat delicious and cheap in Buendía
In towns like Buendía, eating well is usually much easier than finding coverage. In fact, the good news is that those simple restaurants still survive here where the stew is more important than the decoration.
One of the most recommended stops is Bar Julmi, a classic place well known for its homemade dishes, generous portions and that village bar atmosphere where everyone seems to know each other. The funny thing is that many times there is not even a menu and it is the owner who sings the dishes so you can choose what you want.
It is also worth noting Gaudere's, a small and highly rated place where tapas, hamburgers and informal cuisine coexist with a more modern touch, ideal for dinner after spending the afternoon next to the reservoir.
Aitor Fdez-Ceballos
And for those looking for a simple menu, terrace and reasonable prices, Bar Restaurante Buendía continues to be a practical and familiar option, especially busy on weekends and in summer.
What to do around Buendia
The beautiful thing about Buendía is that it never forces you to choose between nature and the urban area. Here both things are constantly mixed. You can have breakfast in the square and, half an hour later, be kayaking through the reservoir or walking along the Guadiela River.
One of the most special plans is to visit the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados, known by the neighbors simply as “El Sitio”. The path runs through vegetation and limestone rock following the course of the Guadiela until reaching an almost hidden place where the water, the silence and the canyon walls create a surprisingly cool atmosphere even in the middle of summer.
Those who prefer to walk more can do the PR-CU 46 trail, a circular route of about 14 kilometers that connects some of the most beautiful landscapes in the area, including: pine forests, natural viewpoints, archaeological remains and open views over the Buendía reservoir and the Sierra de Altomira.
Roman Santos
The best thing about this corner of Cuenca is that it is a constant discovery. In addition, it is a quiet place, away from tourist overcrowding. You only find what one expects from a medieval town surrounded by water and forest where you always want to stay a little longer than planned.
Cover photo | Pxhere
