When the heat turns the holidays into a test of endurance, many of us seek to escape to those places that always seem to exist in another season of the year. Bausen is one of them. This tiny town in the Aran Valley, hidden next to the French border and surrounded by mountains, forests and meadows, barely exceeds 60 inhabitants, but it has advantages that many tourist destinations have lost: silence, authenticity and a temperature that does not require air conditioning.
At more than 900 meters above sea level, among slate roofs, cobblestone streets and stone facades covered in flowers, in Bausen there are no large monuments or souvenir shops. What there is is one of the most beautiful and least crowded towns in the Catalan Pyrenees, a forest of centuries-old beech trees that seems straight out of a legend and a love story as sad as it is famous that still continues to attract visitors.
Pere Igor
What to see in Bausen: a walk between stone streets, viewpoints and legends
The best way to discover Bausen is to get lost in its narrow streets, which preserve traditional Aranese architecture, with stone houses and stepped slate roofs that adapt to the mountainside.
Among its buildings, the church of Sant Pèir ad Vincula stands out, built at the beginning of the 18th century on previous constructions and a survivor of the great fire that destroyed a good part of the town in 1823. It is worth looking at the details of its façade and the historical remains integrated into its walls.
Nearby is the small chapel of Sant Roc, a simple construction located on the path that leads to the Carlac Forest. From here you can also reach the Bausen viewpoint, a place where you can stay longer than expected contemplating the mountains and the intense green of the Toran Valley.
Although the most emotional place in the town is somewhat further away. This is the small cemetery of Teresa, protagonist of the story of the so-called Bausen Lovers. At the beginning of the 20th century, Teresa and Francisco could not marry because they could not pay the ecclesiastical dispensation required by their family relationship. When she died of pneumonia in 1916, the priest refused to bury her in the parish cemetery. The outraged neighbors built a small cemetery in just one night to bury him. Today it remains one of the most unique and moving corners of the entire Aran Valley.
Catalonia tourism
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Bausen
After touring the town or returning from Carlac Forest, it's time to sit down at the table. Any visit to this area is a perfect excuse to try some classics of Aranese gastronomy, such as Aranese stew, artisan sausages or traditional sweets made with anise. Although Bausen is small, it has some restaurants that are highly appreciated by hikers and neighbors.
The best-known option is Casa Lila, a small restaurant with a terrace and views of the valley where homemade dishes made with local products and traditional Aranese recipes are served. Many visitors come here after completing the route through the forest and highlight both its family atmosphere and the simple and delicious cuisine.
Another recommended stop is the Tauerna de Bausen, a traditional tavern where you can try some mountain specialties and enjoy the slow pace of the town.
Catalonia tourism
Although, if you feel like extending the radius by a few kilometers, in Bossòst it is worth booking a table at Er Occitan. Although it is a somewhat higher proposal, it maintains an excellent quality-price ratio and they work with products from the Aran Valley and the Pyrenees.
What to do around Bausen
If there is one reason why many people come to Bausen, it is the Carlac Forest. The circular route that starts from the town itself crosses one of the most spectacular beech forests in the Pyrenees. For about three hours of walking, the trail winds through centuries-old beech trees with twisted trunks, moss and clearings from which panoramic views of the valley appear. In summer, the constant shade of the trees makes the route a perfect alternative to the heat of the coast.
But the experience doesn't end there. Nearby lies the Toran Valley, one of the most unknown corners of Aran. Its forests, old mining vestiges and small dispersed urban centers preserve a much calmer atmosphere than other more popular areas of the region. It is an ideal place to stop at the viewpoints and discover the wildest side of the Pyrenees.
Those who want to continue exploring will find, a few kilometers away, very charming towns such as Canejan, Bossòst or Vielha, as well as some of the most spectacular excursions in Catalonia, such as those that tour the Aigüestortes and Estany de Sant Maurici National Park.
Torisme Val d'Aran
The feeling when leaving Bausen is that of having discovered a secret. It is one of those towns where summer is not remembered by the degrees of the thermometer, but by the shade of the trees, the sound of the water and the privilege of living slowly.
Cover photo | Pere Igor
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