Very close to the mammoth and frenetic Benidorm is located Benissa, a coastal town that does not compete to be the most famous on the Costa Blanca, but which ends up being where those travelers who discover it return. Between the green of its mountains and the warm blue of the Mediterranean, everything happens at a completely different pace from that of its modern neighbor. This is a rhythm in which you want to get lost.
What to see in Benissa: beach, coves and much more than beach and coves
To talk about the historic center of Benissa is to talk about narrow streets, facades with iron bars and a slightly medieval air that make any walk a special experience. It is recommended to start the tour at the Plaza del Portal, where the current town hall (an old hospital from the 18th century) marks the beginning of a tour for which a map is not needed.
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However, the essential stop is at the Church of the Purísima Xiqueta, known as the “Marina Cathedral” known for being one of the largest churches in the Marina Alta region. Its scale, its three naves and that neo-Gothic air make it a quite extraordinary surprise for a town of this size. Nearby, the Abargues House Museum allows you to sneak into the life of the local nobility between the 18th and 19th centuries and stroll through rooms that seem frozen in time.
If you continue walking you will end up finding less obvious gems, such as the Lonja de la Constitución or the curious Casa de Juan Vives, shrouded in a legend of pilgrims and miracles that adds a touch of mystery to the getaway. And then there are the charming streets: Desamparados, Puríssima… and other names that already tell stories before someone explains them to you.
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Where to eat delicious and cheap in Benissa: rice dishes, cokes and bars with sea views
Eating well in Benissa is not complicated and eating well without spending half a budget, either.
One of those places that justify the trip is Casa Cantó. Here rice is not a dish, it is a religion: from the classic of senyoret to more local versions with unexpected touches. The atmosphere is simple, but with that cozy feel of a traditional food house where you know you are going to leave rolling (and happy).
Closer to the sea, Chiringuito L'Espigó is perfect for extending breakfast or turning a beer into an improvised meal. Rice, fried foods and live music in high season, all with direct views of the sea that make you seriously consider not returning to the office.
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And if you fancy something even more relaxed, Xiringuito Olalà, in Baladrar cove, mixes cocktails, concerts and an eternal summer atmosphere that works even out of season. It's not haute cuisine, but it's not necessary either.
What to do around Benissa: hidden coves and mountains with views
Here comes the real twist that Benissa offers: it is not just a pretty coastal town for bathing and relaxing, it is a gateway to some of the most interesting landscapes on the Costa Blanca.
The coast is dotted with coves that seem specifically designed for those fleeing overcrowding. Like Cala dels Pinets, which has that golden light that turns any sunset into a cinematic scene, while Cala Advocat is perfect for a quiet swim and protected from the waves. And then there is the Fustera, wider, more comfortable, but with waters just as transparent.
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To explore them, the Benissa Ecological Walk is one of those plans that do not fail and are almost mandatory. It is a path that connects cliffs, Mediterranean vegetation and viewpoints from which the sea seems bluer than usual.
If you prefer to exchange saltpeter for height, the Sierra de Bèrnia offers hiking routes with views that compensate for the effort of the climb. The landscape opens on rock to the horizon, reminding you that in this corner of Alicante the mountains and the sea do not compete, they converse and understand each other as part of a whole.
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In the end, that is precisely what defines Benissa: a strange but perfect balance between what you expect from the Mediterranean coast and what you didn't know you needed. It's a place you don't arrive at by chance, but to which you probably want to return.
Cover photo | Tourism Valencian Community
