The secret ingredient that Jordi Cruz adds to his sofrito is in such a small quantity that it is worth weighing. It is about one gram of baking soda for every half kilo of preparation. That is the proportion that the chef proposes to kill two birds with one stone: that the onion softens faster and that the tomato is less acidic. He also adds it before adding the tomato, while he is preparing the onion and garlic base.
“I teach you how to make a good stir-fry and I give you tricks that you probably didn't know,” he announces on his YouTube channel. To prepare the recipe, use 400 grams of onion (from Figueres), three or four cloves of garlic and a kilo of natural tomato pulp. He recommends the San Marzano type, although he leaves room to choose the one we like the most and that is at its best of the season. The preparation is completed by salt, black pepper and, for those who want to add it, a little smoked or normal paprika.
The onion and garlic are finely chopped. It is in this first part of the preparation when the baking soda comes into play, with a very specific indication: “For every half kilo of sofrito, one gram of baking soda.” As Cruz explains, this ingredient helps the onion cook faster and become softer. The moment of adding it matters because when using it during poaching, it seeks to act on the texture of the onion before incorporating the tomato pulp.
What does baking soda do in the sauce?
The explanation has to do with its alkaline character. Baking soda raises the pH and helps weaken the pectins that help maintain the structure of the vegetables. Hence it can help soften the onion. Added to this effect is another effect that interests us when the tomato has too marked acidity: baking soda can neutralize part of that acidity. In Cruz's recipe, therefore, that small addition fulfills a double function. So, it's not about pouring it by eye until it fills a teaspoon, but rather respecting the proportion indicated by the cook.
Low heat cooking
Once the base is well poached and seasoned with salt and pepper, Cruz adds the tomato, lower the heat and let it cook for about 45 minutes, until the excess water at the beginning is reduced. Although the baking soda helps with the onion, we still have the cooking ahead of us. Of course, the result is “fast, rich, interesting, fragrant and will be useful for everything,” as Cruz describes. Its trick depends on one gram, however, the rest of the recipe also counts, so don't worry, chop well, sauté the base and let the tomato finish reducing over low heat.
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