It seems incredible that on a coast as crowded as the Costa Brava there are still medieval towns intact and frozen in time. However, Sant Martí d'Empúries is living proof that they exist, a tiny town next to L'Escala where the cobbled streets will make you travel to a quiet past facing the Mediterranean.
What to see in Sant Martí d'Empúries, Girona
This medieval center is barely known, always overshadowed by the Greco-Roman site of Empúries or the surrounding tourist areas. Perhaps that is why this little historical corner has remained unchanged. So much so that they call it Paleopolis, founded in 575 BC by the Romans and populated in the Middle Ages, when it acquired the appearance it maintains today.
Its historic center is tiny, but it accumulates many historical buildings in a very small space. The wall still surrounds the entire town, with gates that open directly to the beach and the Mediterranean. On a walk you will come across the church of Sant Martí, built in the 16th century in late Gothic style, although it maintains Greco-Roman, early Christian and Romanesque details inside.
Church of Sant Martí
Any narrow street will take you to the Plaza Mayor, surrounded by views of the church, but also to the modernist-style Casa Forestal and the remains of the castle, which dates back to the 13th century. Just on the other side of the Casa Forestal is the beach of Sant Martí d'Empúries, with beautiful dunes of soft, golden sand, calm waters and magical sunsets.
Just in front of the sea are several bunkers from the 1940s, which are armed with cannons and can now be visited. It also has an old Hellenistic dock from the 1st century BC and is a beautiful location to escape, disconnect and not see your towel invaded by the tourist next door.
Where to eat cheap and delicious in Sant Martí d'Empúries, Girona
Being such a tiny town (barely 40 inhabitants), there are only three restaurants and all of them are very prepared for visitors. Therefore, the prices are not super cheap, but they are not very expensive either, about 20-40 euros per person. We can choose between the exquisite fideúa from Mesón del Conde or the paella and Mediterranean tapas from La Terrassa d'Empúries.
Where to see the eclipse in Sant Martí d'Empúries, Girona
The Mirador de l'espigó de la Torxa Olímpica, with views of the sea to the east and sunset views to the west, is the highest point in the town, above the Casa Forestal. There we can see the black sun around 8:29-8:30 p.m., over a magical medieval town. It will be an unrepeatable experience, nothing to envy Altafulla or L'Ametlla de Mar, both on this same coast.
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