Saying that there is a town in Pontevedra for which the sight falls short because it is remembered more with the stomach may not seem like something very special when it comes to Galicia. However, Combarro has that he ne sais quoi that make this fishing village in the Rías Baixas (in the municipality of Poio) a unique destination for walks and dining.
Historical walk to open your stomach
Declared a Historic Site in 1972, Combarro preserves one of the most unique concentrations of popular seafaring architecture in Galicia. Here, granite is the law and is found on the facades, on the cobbled streets, in the squares that suddenly open onto the estuary. This, for centuries, was the scene of trade, fishing and smuggling of the place. Which has fueled legends that speak of shipwrecks, mysterious lights in the water and nights in which the sea does not sleep.
Matias Callone
Although it is the granaries (or palleiras) lined up in front of the water that have become its most recognizable image. These traditional buildings form one of those landscapes that explain why this town remains magnetic, even for locals who have already seen it a thousand times. However (and inexplicably), it remains a gem to be discovered in the rest of Spain.
The best starting point to start getting to know Combarro is Praza Peirao da Chousa. From there, the route leaves alone: Rúa do Mar, with the sea almost touching the arcades, and Rúa de San Roque, which leads to the church of the same name. In between, stone cruises, balconies facing the estuary and everyday scenes that remind us that this was (and in part still is) a town of sea and land in equal parts.
Tourism Spain
For centuries, life here was organized between fishing, shellfish harvesting and agricultural work, under the influence of the nearby monastery of San Xoán de Poio. In fact, very close, in the municipality itself, this monastery houses one of the most striking curiosities of the area: the largest granary in Galicia in surface area, supported by 51 feet, in addition to a church, cloisters and an inn that complete the visit.
Eat in Combarro: seafood with a view
Despite its size, Combarro concentrates a notable gastronomic offer. You come to this town to eat traditional Galician cuisine, based on local products and without artifice, with the influence of the sea always present. Seafood, fresh fish, rice and traditional recipes coexist in bars and family restaurants where the views become almost as important as the dish. These are some of the most recommended places to sit at a table in town:
O Bocoi
O Bocoi
Rúa do Mar, 20
Located in the heart of the center and with views of the sea, the O Bocoi winery is one of the names that is most repeated when asking neighbors where to eat in Combarro. They work with top quality products and an extensive menu that includes dishes such as millet empanada, scallops or rice with octopus, one of their specialties. Ideal for a quiet meal in front of the estuary.
Pedramar
A Rua 49-51
Another classic in the town is the Pedramar bar, known for its terrace and uncomplicated traditional cuisine. Here the plan is to share portions and indulge in the usual flavors: octopus á feira, squid with onions or scallops, with the sea as a backdrop.
@taperiapedramar
O Peirao
Rúa do Mar, 6
With a privileged location next to the Pontevedra estuary, the O Peirao restaurant stands out for its grill and a menu featuring seafood. Dorada, sardines or grilled octopus are some of the most popular options.
Blackink
Francisco Regalado Avenue, 44
Located in the marina area, Tintanegra is a good option to try Galician cuisine with a more modern approach. The menu includes dishes such as cockles from the estuary, squid and its own preparations that reinterpret traditional recipes.
inkengrave
Sea and Land Stream
Peirao da Chousa Square, 2
Perfect for a more informal stop. Portions, tapas and prices contained in a central location where it is easy to improvise a meal between walks. Squid, padrón peppers or zorza are some of the safe bets in Arroyo Mar y Tierra.
The walk after
After eating, there can only be one plan: a walk to O Padrón beach, which offers one of the best panoramic views of the town with the granaries lined up at the edge of the sea, the open estuary and, in the background, the island of Tambo and the town of Marín. It is one of those places where you can sit for a while because it is when those moments of ephemeral joy of living that appear on trips like this arrive, where all the senses experience the best that the Earth has to offer.
Because Combarro is not a destination of great monuments or endless lists of what to do. It is, rather, a place to value the greatness of the simple. Sometimes just walking, looking and eating well is enough.
Cover photo | Juanje Orio
