Ferran Adrià used Modena vinegar as an example to make a (constructive) criticism of the hotel sector: why resort to the Italian product when we have the one from Jerez. It is an observation that may seem small, having to pay attention to the label while you serve yourself, but it is perfect to begin to consider what space Spanish gastronomy occupies in the hotels of our own country.
This is what the chef did during the Turium International Forum, held on June 23 in Madrid, where Adrià received the Turium Connecting Excellence 2026 award. In a meeting dedicated to thinking about the future of tourism, the chef led the conversation to what the guest finds when they come down for breakfast. “I don't understand how in four or five star hotels, at breakfast, most of the products are not Spanish,” he complained in his speech.
Furthermore, he illustrated his criticism by reversing the roles: “Can you imagine that in an Italian hotel there would be Sherry vinegar?” The comparison works better than an extensive dissertation because it translates into a concrete, everyday decision: what to buy and what to serve. What Adrià was pointing out is that breakfast is also part of the trip, instead of simply being a mere formality before leaving the hotel.
The chef suggested that at least half of the breakfast products be Spanish. Although he also recognized the administrative difficulties of putting it into practice. So for now it has remained only a protest proposal.
His idea also appeals to accommodations with tighter budgets because Adrià defended having breakfast and eating well in three-star hotels, within their price range. The demand for quality was not reserved for those who could afford a luxury stay and was also extended to restaurants. The point is that eating well is within the reach of the majority.
Cover photo | 3Cat
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