On the map it could pass as one more tiny town in the Aragonese Pyrenees. One of those where you expect to find only a handful of stone houses, narrow streets and mountains that rise as far as the eye can see. However, there was not a time in all of them, as is the case with Roda de Isábena, when the place was one of the most important in the old county of Ribagorza. So much so that this town of barely 50 inhabitants can still boast of being the smallest in Spain with a cathedral.
Located on a hill overlooking the valley of the Isábena River, Roda preserves its medieval layout almost intact. Here the main plan is to go through the stone passages of the town, cross the old entrance doors to the town and discover how such a small town became an episcopal seat for almost two centuries.
Aragon Tourism
What to see in Roda de Isábena
Everything in Roda seems to lead towards the cathedral of San Vicente and San Valero, built in the highest part of the town. The current temple is mainly Romanesque, although its history began much earlier because the first cathedral dates back to the year 956, but the building had to be rebuilt during the 11th century after being destroyed in a Muslim attack.
Roda was the episcopal seat from the middle of the 10th century to the middle of the 12th century and that period of splendor is the reason why a place that today has dozens of neighbors preserves a cathedral complex made up of a church with three naves, several crypts, a cloister and old chapter rooms.
Inside, the central crypt deserves special attention, where the Romanesque sarcophagus of Saint Ramón, bishop of Roda, is located. Although it is not advisable to skip its small, austere cloister surrounded by funerary inscriptions. Furthermore, as in the old refectory, the Roda de Isábena Hospedería was later installed, so it is even possible to eat and sleep within the monumental complex itself.
Digital memory of Catalonia
However, reducing Roda to its cathedral would be missing half of the charm. Next to it is the Prior's fortified palace, built in the 16th century, and very close by is the Plaza Mayor, surrounded by traditional stone houses. From here you can continue along the Paseo de los Canónigos, look for the remains of the old walls or look out at one of the viewpoints over the Chordal, Sis and Turbón massif mountains.
An 18th century oil mill is also preserved and, descending towards the river, the Romanesque bridge of San Jaime. The good thing is that Roda is pedestrian and small enough to wander around it and let yourself be carried away by its streets, arches and passageways. However, for this same reason, if you travel by car, it must be left in the parking area located at the entrance.
Roda de Isábena Inn
Where to eat delicious in Roda de Isábena
One of the most unique places to sit at the table is the restaurant of the Hospedería de Roda de Isábena. As we said before, it is located within the cathedral complex and is accessed through the cloister. Its gastronomic proposal revolves around Aragonese cuisine and local products, with a special presence of meats and mountain dishes.
Another option is the Mesón del Isábena, located in the Plaza Mayor, which serves homemade cuisine in the heart of the town. Casa Simón, also known as Mesón de Roda, is another of the local establishments where you can try traditional recipes and grilled meats with good value for money.
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What to do around Roda de Isábena
Roda can be seen in one morning, but its location allows you to turn the visit into a longer getaway through La Ribagorza. A few kilometers away is La Puebla de Roda, the administrative capital of the municipality, with another medieval bridge over the Isábena river.
Continuing towards the north is the monastery of Santa María de Obarra, one of the great jewels of the Aragonese Romanesque. Its church, built between the 11th and 12th centuries, is located in a narrow area surrounded by mountains, perfect for isolating yourself from the world. The route can continue towards the Benasque valley and the Posets-Maladeta Natural Park if more time is available.
Aragon Tourism
Just in the opposite direction, Graus is a more lively stop, with its colorful Plaza Mayor, the Basilica of the Virgen de la Peña and a gastronomy in which sausage is religion. Thus, the smallest town in Spain with a cathedral ends up becoming the perfect gateway to a region through which to travel without haste and, for some stretches, almost without meeting anyone.
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