Gema Herrerías, pharmaceutical: "The best moisturizer in the world may not work for you if your barrier function is damaged"

Posted on 30 August 2026

There are people who, no matter how many creams and serums they try, cannot find that product that their skin appreciates. Redness, itching and even pimples can appear after using a skin care product, and although it is true that there are people who have delicate or sensitive skin; There are also other people who have sensitized skin, and this is where the problem is that nothing works for them.

Sensitive skin is of genetic origin while sensitized skin is altered skin, which is why it is important to focus on repairing the skin, so that the hydrolipidic mantle is healthy and performs its protective function. The pharmacist Gema Herrías in Cristina Mitre's podcast clarifies some doubts about what dry skin and dehydrated skin are, since they are not the same, and also about the importance of that barrier function.

The expert explains that “dehydrated skin has a temporary and reversible alteration of the protective barrier function, and presents a lack of luminosity and a lack of water.” Gemma says that these skin types have dehydration stretch marks that become visible on the skin, the pores look open but elongated and the dehydrated skin is rough and rough to the touch. But as she emphasizes, it is a transitory state.

“On the other hand, dry skin is a type of skin, and dry skin will always be dry,” continues the pharmacist. This is because this type of skin: “Has less cementing lipids, which are like those little bricks of the skin that provide nutrition and if they are not there, they provide dryness. Even if you do not have lipids, you can also present an alteration in the barrier function as happens in dehydrated skin,” explains Gemma.

If the barrier function is altered, there is no cosmetic that works

This is not the first nor the last time that we will hear about the importance of the hydrolipidic mantle in our skin. We must be clear that the skin naturally has protection and if that protection is damaged, it no longer works correctly and that is when problems begin.

“The barrier function is the most important thing because you can use a super effective cosmetic but if your skin is not good, if your barrier function is altered, everything will irritate you, you will not be able to keep water in the skin. The best moisturizer in the world may not work for you because if you are not able to retain water, the skin will never be hydrated. The absolute priority is that the skin is not irritated, what we call lowering that inflammatory component before treating with any super effective cosmetic like the famous retinol,” clarifies Herrías.

In this inflammatory state, the skin is unable to retain moisture, so applying expensive creams is useless until the skin barrier is first repaired and soothed. “In addition, having the barrier function compromised is an entry of pathogens and allergens into the skin. To know if my skin is altered, you have to look at certain signs: your skin is not able to maintain hydration and then everything irritates you, nothing hydrates you. But with an appropriate cream, in three days the skin immediately recovers its barrier function,” insists the pharmacist.

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Olivia Thompson
Olivia Thompson
I’m Olivia Thompson, born and raised in Wellington, New Zealand. As a lifestyle and travel writer at Latitude Magazine, I’m passionate about uncovering stories that connect people with new experiences and perspectives. My goal is to inspire readers to see everyday life – and the world – with fresh eyes.

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