When Nuria Roca spoke of Candeleda as “her favorite place in the world”, she was not describing just any corner. At the foot of the Sierra de Gredos, between gorges of crystal-clear water, forests and a temperate microclimate, this Avila municipality has been conquering for decades those who seek to disconnect without giving up the beauty of an inland landscape. There, the presenter and Juan del Val have found the perfect setting to invest the writer's Planeta prize (endowed with one million euros) and build their family refuge: a house integrated into nature just two hours from Madrid.
And it is enough to spend a few hours in Candeleda to understand why. This town in the Tiétar Valley has something that differentiates it from other mountain destinations. Perhaps because the stone of the facades coexists with palm trees, fig trees and olive trees thanks to a very peculiar microclimate. All this with the Gredos peaks as a backdrop. It is a place where the day can begin next to a gorge and the afternoons end walking through the cobbled streets that seem frozen in time.
Candeleda Tourism
What to see in Candeleda
The best way to discover Candeleda is to start by getting lost in the historic center with its narrow streets, arcades and traditional half-timbered houses that preserve much of their popular architecture. There is always movement in the Plaza Mayor, especially when the terraces begin to fill up at dusk.
Among the most notable buildings, the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción stands out, built between the 15th and 16th centuries, currently one of the great heritage symbols of the municipality. The hermitage of San Blas also appears very close, another of those corners that tell local history.
DavidDaguerro
Anyone who wants to delve a little deeper into the region's past can also visit the neighboring town of El Raso to visit the Celtic fort of El Freíllo, one of the best preserved Vetón settlements. To visit it is to realize how surprising it is that more than two thousand years ago there was already organized life in this same enclave dominated by the Gredos mountains.
And, of course, the main protagonist of the place is the water. The gorges that descend from the mountains form natural pools where many visitors take refuge during the summer. It is no coincidence that many of those who buy a second home in the area do so attracted by this magical combination of mountains, baths and history.
The Gene
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Candeleda
Gastronomy is another good argument for staying longer than planned in the place. A safe bet is Casa Pepe Restaurant, very popular among neighbors and visitors for its traditional cuisine, where there is no shortage of specialties such as goat or grilled meats, with an excellent quality-price ratio.
It is also worth booking a table at Restaurante Los Marinos, known for its generous portions and home-cooked cuisine, ideal for regaining strength after a morning of hiking. If you are looking for a more informal proposal, the Bar Perdigón Restaurant has earned a magnificent reputation thanks to its tapas, meats and a village bar atmosphere where there always seems to be someone you know. Although another economical alternative is Can D'vera, a perfect grill to have a meal without blowing up your budget.
Nachosan
What to do around Candeleda
Although the town invites you to stay and rest, much of the magic is in everything that surrounds it. Candeleda is one of the main gateways to the Sierra de Gredos Regional Park and has a wide network of signposted trails that cross gorges, chestnut forests and old cattle trails. Among the most popular routes are the routes to Puerto de Candeleda or the Sillao de la Peña trail, as well as several sections of the GR-180 that runs through the Tiétar Valley.
Nearby is also the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de Chilla, surrounded by one of the most spectacular landscapes in the area and a common starting point for various mountain excursions.
Candeleda Tourism
If you fancy more of a cultural getaway, the small town of El Raso combines archaeological heritage with excellent views over the valley. And for those who are simply looking for nature, just follow any of the secondary roads that wind between oak groves, gorges and country estates to discover why so many Madrid residents end up turning this part of Gredos into their weekend refuge.
That is precisely Candeleda's greatest virtue. Its appeal lies in the feeling that the days pass at a different pace. A rhythm that convinced Nuria Roca and Juan del Val to build their refuge among the mountains and that explains why, whoever arrives once, usually ends up planning the next getaway even before leaving.
Cover photo | @nuriarocagranell and Candeleda Tourism
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