Less than 600 people live in Zuheros, but for four days in September its streets are filled with thousands of visitors and cheese shops arriving from different parts of Spain. The person responsible is the Villa de Zuheros Cheese Festival, which in 2026 will celebrate its twenty-third edition from September 17 to 20. According to the Provincial Tourism Board of Córdoba, more than 15,000 people pass through it and around 8,000 kilos of cheese are consumed. Considering that we are talking about such a delicacy, the success is quickly understood.
At the fair you can try and buy artisan goat, sheep and cow cheeses with different cures, in addition to meeting many of their producers directly. However, the town's relationship with this food is not limited to a weekend. Zuheros is located in the heart of the Sierra Subbética, a region with a livestock tradition where authentic goat cheeses are still made in an artisanal way. In other words: when the stalls are dismantled, the same gastronomic reason for visiting the town is still there the rest of the year.
Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie
What to see in Zuheros
The urban center of Zuheros is located on the mountainside between narrow streets, whitewashed facades and viewpoints open to a landscape of olive groves. Furthermore, above the Plaza de la Paz rise the remains of the castle, a fortress of Muslim origin built directly on the rock. After the Christian conquest it was transformed into a castle-palace, and today its silhouette is the most recognizable image of the town. Nearby is the church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, originally built in the 16th century and renovated in later times.
Another interesting stop is the Juan Fernández Cruz Museum of Popular Customs and Arts. Its 28 spaces reconstruct what domestic and work life was like in Zuheros and the rest of the region since the end of the 19th century. Agricultural implements, utensils, workshops and traditional rooms remind us that before becoming one of the most photographed towns in Córdoba, we had to work quite hard here.
Twenty-four of Jahen
The essential visit, however, is located about four kilometers from the urban center. The Bat Cave preserves cave paintings and archaeological remains that document the human presence in the place from the Middle Paleolithic to Roman times. It was also a stable settlement during the Neolithic, which makes it one of the most important prehistoric sites in Andalusia.
The part open to the public is 415 meters long, 65 meters deep and has about 700 steps. Of course, the visit is guided and places are limited so it is recommended to reserve in advance. It is also advisable to wear shoes with good grip and some warmth even during the summer. You cannot take photographs inside, so the experience is that vintage experience of simply looking and remembering.
Zuheros Tourism
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Zuheros
Taking into account that it is such a small town, the offer is not exactly endless, but it does allow you to eat authentic Cordoba cuisine. One of the best-rated options is the Zuhayra Restaurant, which serves traditional cuisine with dishes such as salmorejo, croquettes, flamenquín, meats and, as is inevitable, different preparations with local cheese.
For something more informal there is El Rincón del Paseo, a small family establishment with a terrace and views of the castle. Their menu highlights the cheese board, homemade croquettes and almond cake. It also has an affordable price level, so it is especially good for tapas without turning the meal into a binge. The third alternative is Bar Enreo, with a terrace where you can have some tapas or a few portions in a more relaxed atmosphere.
@nati_gru First time at this fair! I loved it! Did you know her? #cheesefair #zuheros #argentinosenespaña #vivirenunpueblo #andalucia
♬ original sound – natigru
What to do around Zuheros
The Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park compensates for the absence of the sea in Córdoba with routes between mountains, canyons and olive groves. One of the best known is the Bailón River trail, which crosses a landscape of limestone rock and Mediterranean vegetation before reaching Zuheros.
Another simpler option is to travel a section of the Vía Verde del Aceite, created on the route of the old railway that transported goods and passengers between Linares and Puente Genil. It can be done both on foot and by bicycle and connects the Zuheros area with nearby towns such as Doña Mencía and Luque between olive groves, old stations and railway viaducts.
Subbética Tourism
Doña Mencía is especially close and preserves remains of its castle and the old wall, as well as wineries linked to the wines of Montilla-Moriles. It is also worth visiting Cabra, about 20 kilometers away, to visit its historic center or go up to the hermitage of the Virgen de la Sierra. Although, after a day of caves, castles and trails, it is quite possible that what we want is to return to Zuheros for another wedge of cheese.
Cover photo | Tourism of Andalusia and Nikater
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