In L'Escala, on Girona's Costa Brava, you can start the morning with a freshly prepared anchovy toast, walk next to a fishing port that still preserves the soul of another time and end the day contemplating the ruins of the city where the Greeks and Romans landed on the Iberian Peninsula.
Located south of the Gulf of Rosesthis town of Alt Emporda has managed to maintain its own identity beyond tourism. Its history is linked to the sea, fishing and the canning industry, but also to one of the most important archaeological sites in Catalonia, located in a setting as unusual as it is spectacular because it is practically on the beach.
Tourism of Catalonia
What to see in L'Escala: a journey from ancient Greece to the modern Mediterranean
The great jewel of the area is, without a doubt, the ruins of Empúries. Few places in Spain allow you to tour an ancient Greek city and a Roman city while the Mediterranean appears just a few meters away. The image of the columns, mosaics and archaeological remains in front of the blue sea has something magical and difficult to forget.
Empúries was the gateway for Greek and Roman cultures to the peninsula and still retains part of that magnetism today. In addition to the site, the museum helps to understand what life was like in this strategic enclave more than two thousand years ago.
The visit usually continues towards Sant Martí d'Empúries, the small medieval town where the first Greek colony was established. Its cobbled streets, ancient walls and stately homes create a fascinating contrast with the surrounding beaches. It is one of those places that seem frozen in time.
Tourism of Catalonia
Returning to the historic center of L'Escala, it is worth stopping at the church of Sant Pere, linked for centuries to the local fishing community, and at the old Alfolí de la Sal, a 17th century building that functioned as a warehouse, customs office and salt market. The importance of this last product was not minor because without it it would have been impossible to develop the salting industry that would end up turning L'Escala anchovies into an international gastronomic reference.
Those who enjoy literature can also visit Casa Albert, linked to the writer Caterina Albert, better known by her pseudonym Víctor Català, author of the famous novel 'Soledad'. And if there is something that invites you to walk aimlessly, it is the promenade. Along the coast there are small urban beaches, old fishermen's houses and sculptures such as the La Cobla monument, dedicated to the Catalan Sardana tradition.
Tourism of Catalonia
Where to eat delicious and cheap in L'Escala
Talking about L'Escala is inevitably talking about anchovies. Here they are not a simple appetizer, but part of the local identity. Several canneries maintain traditional production methods and many allow you to get up close and personal with a product that has been defining the town's economy for centuries.
To try them without spending half a budget, a safe bet is to try them in one of the taverns and restaurants in the old town, where they are usually served on bread with tomato or accompanied by Empordà products.
Among the best-rated establishments, El Roser 2 stands out, very popular for its Mediterranean cuisine and rice dishes. Also, La Caravel·la, located in front of the sea and known for its fish and traditional dishes; and Korpilombolo, an informal option that combines local recipes with a menu highly appreciated by those looking to eat well.
Joandrés
Beyond anchovies, it is worth paying attention to other seafood products common in the area, such as cane, fish from the market or rice dishes made with local seafood. Eating in front of the port while the boats return from fishing continues to be one of the small pleasures of L'Escala.
What to do around L'Escala
One of the best excursions is simply to follow the coastline. The coastal path that connects L'Escala with Sant Martí d'Empúries winds along the sea between pine trees shaped by the north wind, wooden walkways and small coves. At dusk, when the heat drops and the Mediterranean takes on golden tones, the walk becomes an experience that is difficult to beat.
Empordà tourism
For those looking for a beach, Cala Montgó is one of the most attractive in this stretch of the Costa Brava. Protected by the mountain of the same name, it combines fine sand, calm waters and a historic 16th century watchtower that recalls the times when pirates were a real threat to the area's fishermen. Climbing up to it allows you to enjoy one of the best panoramic views of the coast.
The Montgrí Natural Park, the Medes Islands and the Baix Ter also begin very close by. From here trails start that cross cliffs, pine forests and natural viewpoints over the Mediterranean. The routes to Punta Ventosa are especially recommended for those looking for an easy walk with spectacular views.
Tourism of Catalonia
A little further away, other great treasures of the Empordà appear. The Medes Islands, opposite l'Estartit, are one of the best diving destinations in the western Mediterranean, while the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà Natural Park offers completely different landscapes, with wetlands where it is possible to observe birds for much of the year.
That is the great virtue of L'Escala: in a few kilometers it brings together classic history, seafaring tradition, protected nature and the best anchovies in Spain. A place where the Mediterranean is not only landscape, but also memory and salt.
Cover photo | Tourism of Catalonia
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