While some areas of Mallorca are synonymous with queues, umbrellas stuck together and streets where tranquility is conspicuous by its absence, there is a town that lives in a kind of parallel reality to the tourist Mediterranean summer. This is Portocolom, a small fishing town that has managed to resist the impact of mass tourism better than other destinations. So, in July, when overbooking is established in the Mediterranean, it continues to offer something similar to a real vacation.
Located on the southeast coast of the island and with a population of about 4,000 inhabitants, it is not that it does not receive visitors, but its essence remains that of a coastal town in which people live, work and go out for a walk in the evening. There are still fishermen who return to the port, neighbors who greet each other by name and terraces where conversations matter more than the photo for Instagram.
Sigismund von Dobschütz
Part of its charm lies in the fact that it is home to the largest natural port in the Balearic Islands, a huge protected bay where traditional boats, small fishing boats and some sailboats mix. Around it unfolds another picture that is difficult to forget: fishermen's houses with white facades splashed with pastel colors, private piers and a promenade to walk aimlessly.
What to see in Portocolom
The best way to discover Portocolom is to forget about your cell phone and follow the promenade that runs along the port. The heart of the town is located in Es Riuetó, the most picturesque area of the town, where the traditional fishermen's houses are reflected on the water and the ancient llaüts Majorcans remain moored in front of their piers.
Enrique
Nearby is the church of Mare de Déu del Carme, dedicated to the patron saint of sailors. Its presence reminds us that Portocolom was, for centuries, a community closely linked to the sea and fishing. Part of the old town is built around it, one of the best preserved on the Mallorcan coast.
The walk can continue to the Portocolom Tower, an old defensive construction built to guard against possible pirate incursions. From there the views allow us to understand the magnitude of this natural port that for centuries was an important commercial route for the export of wine produced in the interior of the island.
Gabriela Coronado Hernandez
One of the most photographed places is the Portocolom lighthouse, recognizable by its white and blue stripes. Located on the cliffs of Sa Punta, it offers one of the most beautiful panoramic views of the Mallorcan east coast, especially at sunset, when the golden light transforms the sea into a mirror of copper tones.
Those looking for lesser-known corners can visit the so-called Cleo Baths, natural pools excavated by erosion in the rocks of the coast. Of course, access requires walking with some caution, but the reward is transparent waters and one of the wildest sights in this part of Mallorca.
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Portocolom
Unlike other destinations where there are many restaurants designed exclusively for tourists, in Portocolom it is still possible to find establishments frequented by residents and with reasonable prices for Mallorca.
Asurnipal
One of the most recommended options is Sa Cova Dets Ases, located next to the church square. Its local atmosphere menu with traditional Mallorcan dishes fits perfectly with the spirit of simplicity of the town. Don't forget to ask pa amb oli.
It is also worth visiting Vora Mar, one of those restaurants where the location facing the port is part of the menu. Its rice, fish and Mediterranean recipes have made it a reference for both visitors and residents of the area.
For those who prefer an informal meal by the sea, El Chiringuito de s'Arenal is a safe bet. Its location next to the beach and its relaxed atmosphere make the dinner last longer while contemplating the Mediterranean. It is especially pleasant in the late afternoon, when the heat eases and the beach begins to empty.
Enrique
What to do around Portocolom
One of the great attractions of staying in Portocolom is that it is close to some of the most beautiful coves in Mallorca, but without giving up the tranquility of a residential town.
A few minutes away is Cala Marçal, a wide beach with clear sand and transparent waters, highly appreciated by families and travelers looking for comfort. However, those who prefer wilder landscapes can head to Cala Brafi or Cala Sa Nau, two small jewels surrounded by pine forests and cliffs where the Mediterranean takes on turquoise tones that are hard to believe.
Cristian Bortes
Further along the coast, it is worth booking a morning to climb the Santuario de Sant Salvador, near Felanitx. The road winds between hills until reaching the top of Puig de Sant Salvador, from where you can get one of the best panoramic views of Mallorca. On clear days it is possible to see much of the island.
Hiking lovers for all audiences will also find coastal routes that connect different coves and viewpoints, while sea fans can take advantage of the calm waters of the area to snorkel, paddle surf or take a boat trip along the east coast.
Friedrich Haag
Portocolom does not boast of great monuments or a frenetic nightlife. Its appeal lies precisely in the opposite: preserving a Mallorca that seemed to have disappeared. A Mallorca of fishing ports, pastel-colored facades, sitting down in front of the sea and walks without posturing. Even in the middle of July.
Cover photo | Enrique
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