I am obsessed with discovering fishing towns and whenever I can, I travel to the sea. In my tireless search I came across one of the most unknown towns in Spain, close to the ocean and forgotten by time. It is in Almería and is stuck in the past, that is where its magic lies.
It is called Las Negras and still retains all its essence of yesteryear, far from mass tourism and large hotel companies. Here you won't find huge accommodations, promenades full of foreigners or convenience stores. souvenirs. What you will see are whitewashed houses facing the sea, peeling boats rattling in the waves and a smell of saltpeter that invades everything.
Hidden in the middle of Cabo de Gata, the first thing that catches your attention are its white buildings between red mountains. Its narrow streets are silent witnesses of the passage of time, all of them full of potted cacti, palm trees and bougainvillea that decorate every corner. All of them lead you to its black volcanic sand beach, a beauty with turquoise waters.
Las Negras does not have great architectural gems or historical buildings to visit. Here you come to connect with the town's seafaring past, to enjoy beautiful walks through the ancient Cerro Negro volcano or through the lunar territory that surrounds it. We can also go to Cala San Pedro, a hidden beach that can only be reached by boat or on foot. There are the ruins of an old castle next to the beach, but the most surprising thing is the self-sufficient hippie community that stays on this beach.
Walking through Las Negras, along its little pier full of bars to have a drink overlooking the sea and along its coast is an experience of disconnection that is almost gone in Spain. It has a very curious and entertaining craft market, photos worthy of a vintage postcard on every corner and a very close and hospitable local atmosphere. It's the best.
