This is not a town that is ever talked about in fashion and trend magazines, but it should. Above all, now that we are more aware than ever of the damage caused by mass tourism and real estate speculation. La Algameca Chica, in Cartagena, is a hopeful example of how an authentic summer vacation like those of yesteryear is still possible.
It is a small fishing village built between mountains and sea by fishermen, miners and vacationers. There are no resorts here, nor beach clubs, nor clonal urbanizations. There are boats, colorful and picturesque houses, neighbors who greet each other by name and bathing in crystal clear waters. In addition to a calm from another era, without running water or conventional electricity systems.
Halfway between a local legend, a bohemian enclave and a time capsule, this centuries-old settlement, in which its humble inhabitants enjoy a quality of life that only the rich are expected to have, continues to resist outside any town hall in a peculiar administrative limbo while preserving a way of life that has almost disappeared. Often compared to Shanghai, visiting it is not just an excursion: it is peering into a secret Cartagena that some locals don't even know about and many tourists can't even imagine.
What to see in Algameca Chica
The first thing that surprises is the urban complex of barracks next to the water. Some humble homes, many inherited from generation to generation, built with recycled materials, wood, brick or sheet metal and adapted to the slope. Its aesthetic mixes popular Mediterranean, naïve air and a certain improvised exoticism. It is not unusual for some to describe it as “little Murcian Shanghai”.
A small bridge connects the two areas of this settlement at the mouth of the Benipila Rambla and its own history sums up the spirit of the place quite well: when the danas damaged it, it was the neighbors themselves who rebuilt it.
Although one of the most curious symbols of the environment is undoubtedly the Arco de Amalia, an impressive rock formation sculpted by the sea and that recalls the legend of a supposed healer or witch who lived in the area. Between myth and oral tradition, its story still survives in the local imagination and adds to the small Algameca that mysterious touch that always improves any getaway.
The Algameca Chica is located at the foot of Mount Galeras, with increasingly privileged views of the port and military environment of Cartagena as you ascend. In addition, it is easy to climb. The contrast between nature, defensive history and daily life is fascinating.
Where to eat delicious and cheap in Algameca Chica and the surrounding areas
Within the town the offer is very limited and changing, since these are constructions that are not legal (but not illegal either). So the most practical thing is to eat in Cartagena city or on nearby beaches.
Brave Seas
In front of Playa Cala Cortina, on the beachfront and with excellent views of the sea, Mares Bravas is a Mediterranean cuisine restaurant, a very good option to eat rice and fish at a good price.
The Cathedral
In the historic center of Cartagena, La Catedral is a restaurant that serves hearty tapas, a competitive menu, and is in the perfect location after a morning of sightseeing.
The Tin Soldier
El Soldadito de Plomo is a charming storybook cafe in the heart of Cartagena, highly recommended for tapas, an aperitif that includes the classic seafood salad and anchovy, and enjoying traditional Murcian cuisine.
The Jumillana Grape
La Uva Jumillana is a local institution. It is one of the oldest wineries in Cartagena, converted into a popular tapas bar where you can eat well, a lot and at a reasonable price.
What to do around La Algameca Chica
Cortina Cove
The most beautiful urban beach in Cartagena is a few minutes drive from Algameca Chica. Clean sand, crystal clear waters and good atmosphere. Ideal if you want to combine wildness with comforts.
Snorkel in nearby rocky coves
At the end of the town there are small rocky bathing areas very appreciated by those looking for a more active bath. Of course, wear booties because here the stone is the protagonist.
Hiking to the surroundings of Galeras
The hiking trails in the area allow easy routes with views of the Mediterranean, old military batteries and panoramic views over Cartagena.
Visit Cartagena center
If you still don't know the city, you are just a stone's throw away from the Roman Theatre, the port and one of the most interesting historic centers in the Spanish southeast.
Of course, Algameca Chica is not a destination for those looking for luxury. It's better than that: it's authenticity. A place where summer still means disconnection and contact with nature. It is not a place that tries to please everyone, and that is why it makes you fall in love. Those who arrive without prejudice usually leave with the great reward of seeing how it is possible for something like this to continue to exist and function.
Cover photo | Enrique Freire
