Facial care requires some basic steps such as cleansing, which is probably one of the fundamental pillars. But when it comes to hydrating or applying several active ingredients, that is when we notice a saturation of products. A perfect example is the Korean skincare routine that has crossed all borders, and now we see how many people opt to apply product after product, without even considering whether their skin truly needs it.
The first criterion we must have is our skin type, and from there to know what its needs are before starting to apply products just because. Even sunscreen, which we know perfectly well is a staple for everyone, must also be chosen according to skin type, since there are creamier textures and oil-free formulas, to name an example.
But it is also of utmost importance to keep in mind that the skin changes over time, and one of those moments is menopause. According to pharmacist Gema Herrerías, “after menopause, oily skins produce less sebum and dry ones dehydrate; there is a need to reinforce the barrier function. In addition, from the age of 50, the loss of firmness and wrinkles becomes more noticeable, so choosing an adequate moisturizing cream involves finding a formula that reinforces the barrier function,” she explains.
All skin types need to follow a skincare routine, but each one has its own needs. As the expert notes, “age cannot be the main criterion when caring for the skin and choosing a type of cream. There are other variables that must be taken into account.” To get it right, Gema speaks about her methodology “the skin code” which “is nothing more than an up-to-date image of your skin based on the skin type, the state of its barrier function and the priority of treatment,” the pharmacist explains.
In this way, different factors are taken into account and not only age. Just as this method should not be discussed as a fixed code, since, as we well know, lifestyle, hormonal changes, or diet affect the state of the skin.
The first thing Gema recommends to care for the skin and keep it healthy is to include “barrier-function repairing ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids and hyaluronic acid.” In this way we will maintain the hydrolipidic mantle in perfect condition, which is the skin’s natural shield.
The next step would be to commit to “intensive-action ingredients that help address the signs of skin aging,” explains Herrerías. In this case we find many active ingredients that are perfect for treating mature skin, and these are the ones she recommends.
- Peptides: They are responsible for stimulating collagen synthesis and, consequently, improve firmness and reduce the depth of wrinkles.
- Exosomes: “Exosome-based technologies, such as those derived from Goji stem cells, offer an advanced approach by stimulating cellular regeneration and promoting communication between cells,” she explains.
- Niacinamide: “Improves uneven tone, reinforces barrier function, reduces cellular oxidation and contributes to brighter and more even skin,” the pharmacist tells us.
- Retinol and glycolic acid: “Always adapted to each skin type and its level of tolerance,” emphasizes Gema.
